Heligoland

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Coordinates: 54°10′57″N 7°53′07″E / 54.18250°N 7.88528°E / 54.18250; 7.88528
From English Wikipedia @ Freddythechick
Not to be confused with Helgeland, a district in Norway. For other uses, see Heligoland (disambiguation).
"Helgoland" redirects here. For the underwater laboratory habitat, see Helgoland Habitat. For the book by Carlo Rovelli, see Helgoland (book).

Heligoland
Helgoland
Municipality
Flag of Heligoland
Flag
Coat of arms of Heligoland
Coat of arms
Location of Heligoland within Pinneberg district

<imagemap>File: Helgoland in PI.svg | 240x240px

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246 631 243 616 257 616 275 628 287 636 285 638 291 642 301 Bilsen poly 482 120 485 108 523 94 534 84 488 53 480 15 426 20 430 34 414 44 432 55 433 68 441 69 447 84 449 100 458 111 468 111 Bokel poly 441 273 469 246 464 244 458 232 473 224 468 223 455 223 459 215 423 215 421 215 420 233 411 243 406 254 395 254 391 262 400 269 407 264 412 276 430 276 Bokholt-Hanredder poly 677 510 705 510 727 513 732 494 718 456 681 453 687 448 680 438 661 432 655 425 648 425 643 435 643 439 649 448 645 467 652 472 660 472 669 490 670 491 Bönningstedt poly 572 466 582 462 573 448 603 425 616 389 602 398 601 392 594 387 590 377 575 348 578 352 583 345 584 332 584 328 575 335 570 349 568 353 567 359 557 363 544 361 541 367 548 370 553 377 546 385 549 406 543 428 540 440 534 443 536 454 547 464 Borstel-Hohenraden poly 407 161 403 149 404 141 394 142 391 136 372 140 380 121 384 115 384 109 392 107 400 101 412 102 409 87 421 88 431 82 431 69 441 67 449 84 445 96 458 114 463 109 477 117 474 125 472 130 473 138 475 151 466 153 464 146 469 144 469 142 461 140 453 133 458 142 444 141 439 146 421 144 425 151 412 152 Brande-Hörnerkirchen poly 456 297 436 292 444 283 442 273 460 270 465 266 470 260 482 252 486 254 484 261 507 277 505 283 486 282 470 291 462 287 Bullenkuhlen poly 667 543 677 537 680 528 678 509 675 494 670 492 659 472 652 471 647 461 612 477 620 479 607 489 608 499 619 500 629 510 635 510 634 522 Ellerbek poly 523 398 526 387 527 374 545 364 564 361 570 352 560 352 553 354 555 350 564 346 560 338 553 333 553 328 525 320 521 333 505 337 504 333 493 340 491 341 479 337 476 351 471 348 466 365 481 363 495 371 494 380 Ellerhoop poly 337 354 338 344 305 327 322 320 320 306 330 305 329 292 326 277 329 264 338 259 346 249 360 253 368 250 373 251 378 256 393 261 401 265 401 277 393 283 388 284 396 311 416 322 422 321 423 315 430 314 438 316 433 319 435 329 438 330 431 339 424 340 419 331 406 327 407 329 399 331 393 341 388 347 391 358 383 362 379 352 355 357 Elmshorn poly 338 439 359 426 350 407 351 395 327 395 326 397 316 397 295 395 295 410 286 412 285 421 289 423 294 429 301 425 304 421 316 420 Groß Nordende poly 426 216 435 208 433 194 443 187 422 188 420 181 402 180 407 174 405 161 412 156 426 148 424 144 442 149 443 142 454 140 458 139 460 144 468 142 462 146 469 159 474 165 469 170 474 173 462 188 472 197 478 200 481 213 471 217 469 221 456 222 457 215 Groß Offenseth-Aspern poly 628 602 631 591 657 575 631 563 592 542 584 523 579 521 580 529 568 551 562 545 556 551 550 555 548 565 551 577 549 583 543 585 539 590 546 595 567 599 575 594 592 596 595 587 601 591 Halstenbek poly 215 548 266 509 285 511 294 509 314 514 323 508 336 509 332 495 317 478 304 488 293 481 278 479 266 486 260 471 250 478 232 479 232 470 224 469 196 462 203 479 201 504 Haselau poly 714 456 727 441 723 434 727 430 731 411 737 403 731 401 739 387 733 373 727 381 724 392 699 385 689 395 669 395 653 407 657 414 655 426 674 436 683 439 684 445 683 453 Hasloh poly 527 292 560 265 565 267 599 244 600 234 591 236 587 228 582 213 607 169 621 161 606 141 593 152 603 163 602 168 580 158 577 195 568 197 564 206 556 205 543 210 539 204 545 213 533 224 533 230 529 250 506 248 507 256 514 257 513 261 499 261 501 275 523 281 Heede poly 359 423 367 420 376 417 383 421 396 409 408 421 419 413 421 403 410 390 393 389 389 384 360 381 354 386 350 407 Heidgraben poly 355 554 353 549 393 542 415 551 433 538 430 528 420 527 425 522 423 517 416 519 417 510 404 516 385 504 351 499 344 488 337 498 335 506 336 524 343 533 342 554 Heist poly 28 326 27 202 175 206 176 326 Heligoland poly 556 354 554 350 564 344 564 339 551 338 555 327 533 324 543 308 531 286 557 267 569 267 601 244 601 239 614 239 617 249 625 251 616 258 615 274 627 284 625 295 628 309 605 309 607 316 592 323 586 328 575 333 569 351 Hemdingen poly 330 655 365 631 362 600 351 579 346 552 341 553 335 566 341 573 331 574 330 587 312 583 306 588 300 594 295 601 280 591 284 578 272 578 255 567 253 550 240 551 230 538 221 543 240 565 235 573 220 571 214 560 206 555 195 496 186 497 185 532 201 568 210 594 268 630 Hetlingen poly 365 606 359 588 345 568 345 555 358 555 354 550 393 542 418 548 430 535 429 539 440 538 440 549 489 570 487 582 440 584 413 600 390 600 376 611 370 604 Holm poly 407 389 405 381 416 385 416 378 428 371 432 354 427 353 421 338 418 332 404 332 400 332 385 346 394 357 386 361 378 353 354 356 337 352 333 364 318 369 339 377 333 378 322 381 323 393 351 396 352 383 356 382 386 384 393 390 Klein Nordende poly 391 261 376 255 370 249 356 251 347 248 365 198 372 137 390 137 395 145 408 143 403 148 403 157 403 166 406 181 425 178 421 186 438 188 437 191 437 207 423 217 416 237 401 254 392 254 Klein Offenseth-Sparrieshoop poly 433 321 434 314 421 313 425 318 418 322 395 308 382 284 399 284 400 272 402 268 410 266 411 274 437 275 446 273 446 278 435 288 451 298 455 302 466 306 456 316 450 312 450 320 Kölln-Reisiek poly 530 447 534 442 543 436 542 424 547 415 547 384 551 376 545 364 531 373 526 394 519 394 512 411 510 422 498 426 504 431 498 440 517 449 Kummerfeld poly 622 253 650 200 644 183 630 176 621 160 606 168 581 211 582 228 593 234 598 234 599 240 616 239 Langeln poly 557 209 563 209 569 196 569 192 563 190 568 155 566 144 584 129 567 122 570 112 532 81 525 95 491 103 489 109 485 111 485 122 474 116 471 132 473 146 499 155 515 178 513 183 523 185 529 179 528 191 534 187 539 202 541 200 548 194 560 198 Lutzhorn poly 338 496 341 492 352 499 389 505 405 516 411 514 417 495 405 491 410 487 406 476 401 474 401 465 398 460 377 457 370 465 345 464 336 460 326 470 298 473 296 466 274 467 273 470 261 473 265 482 273 481 290 480 302 488 316 479 333 498 343 487 358 499 Moorrege poly 259 471 244 446 254 432 262 423 264 412 284 416 287 419 288 427 292 430 297 429 334 461 331 468 298 470 295 464 Neuendeich poly 399 81 392 46 396 45 380 35 378 24 428 17 429 33 415 45 431 55 434 71 427 87 409 89 409 84 Osterhorn poly 529 607 505 592 501 559 502 554 502 518 502 513 495 510 498 504 499 495 509 498 513 498 511 489 512 478 508 449 530 449 540 458 550 463 574 465 560 477 555 493 559 499 551 514 578 520 577 531 570 553 565 543 555 555 547 568 550 579 547 584 539 586 542 594 Pinneberg poly 509 486 511 466 509 452 517 450 501 435 508 429 499 426 487 421 479 442 470 445 475 450 476 469 490 484 495 480 Prisdorf poly 656 405 623 396 617 394 601 400 602 388 587 386 593 380 578 354 584 348 588 325 607 317 607 309 628 309 624 299 625 284 632 281 639 285 641 297 648 307 658 320 665 308 689 315 693 309 719 307 756 293 712 306 752 282 749 273 763 268 786 289 771 291 773 301 781 304 764 317 768 322 775 322 766 355 747 358 746 349 740 358 748 359 745 366 753 369 742 389 737 373 727 378 723 396 699 391 667 396 Quickborn poly 260 368 237 306 327 264 325 276 332 287 328 309 318 303 321 318 308 322 303 332 294 347 290 348 282 354 273 355 Raa-Besenbek poly 657 569 668 539 627 522 635 509 625 512 619 502 603 499 605 492 592 487 594 484 587 485 578 483 575 466 565 469 557 492 563 505 554 513 584 519 592 542 655 570 Rellingen poly 578 654 558 648 547 635 532 631 530 610 540 595 557 596 580 596 592 595 594 590 599 592 628 603 619 612 619 626 603 627 601 629 590 630 591 642 Schenefeld poly 292 411 272 412 258 411 260 386 238 385 243 377 261 372 268 361 277 357 289 356 292 345 300 344 302 331 311 326 338 347 336 358 331 366 318 368 334 376 330 381 319 377 323 396 296 392 Seester poly 195 460 194 452 176 450 175 493 168 493 139 418 142 415 169 445 172 454 195 452 167 395 197 380 209 381 218 384 233 384 239 378 243 385 259 385 257 409 265 412 243 441 257 471 249 478 232 479 232 466 Seestermühe poly 465 365 471 344 472 349 481 337 493 340 501 337 487 328 485 324 485 315 469 313 467 307 456 317 453 313 451 321 436 319 436 326 441 329 432 338 424 341 426 352 430 352 428 372 432 366 447 369 Seeth-Ekholt poly 604 494 617 482 622 475 653 460 652 447 637 438 644 423 660 425 660 417 654 402 615 392 604 426 574 448 590 460 579 463 579 483 593 483 Tangstedt poly 455 471 434 458 426 464 424 471 409 478 398 473 400 466 419 459 417 450 418 435 416 423 422 423 418 416 420 403 411 388 408 384 421 382 423 375 433 369 449 368 481 364 494 368 494 379 520 394 511 406 512 419 501 425 489 414 479 439 468 443 476 451 477 469 472 466 Tornesch poly 330 460 295 428 303 424 303 420 313 423 343 440 362 426 377 419 385 418 395 411 404 420 414 416 423 419 419 423 415 440 418 455 403 466 399 460 378 456 373 464 343 463 Uetersen poly 451 707 461 670 466 667 461 653 479 638 471 622 472 615 491 622 490 604 484 595 492 575 485 584 437 589 417 601 394 598 378 612 368 605 365 605 366 631 329 657 349 686 376 687 413 704 Wedel poly 382 108 382 101 376 93 353 93 346 69 351 65 336 46 357 30 364 30 378 22 379 35 395 41 394 50 399 85 408 84 407 100 397 101 391 109 Westerhorn poly 294 603 304 590 312 582 329 587 328 573 336 575 335 566 340 551 343 533 335 522 332 505 327 505 312 513 291 504 282 510 271 507 231 535 243 548 256 545 256 567 274 577 283 575 280 592 Haseldorf

poly 31 179 29 116 16 115 20 92 29 90 30 20 230 20 233 182 Schleswig-Holstein poly 649 748 652 747 492 711 447 710 458 674 467 670 464 656 474 638 476 623 485 611 487 617 494 604 479 595 498 565 499 592 530 604 531 612 533 637 550 635 564 654 574 653 591 647 595 634 612 630 631 606 636 592 657 571 669 541 683 534 679 509 703 497 688 506 738 513 762 521 796 510 799 461 816 461 816 748 Hamburg poly 500 748 437 739 384 745 325 699 312 693 291 675 256 662 221 640 207 614 187 608 159 556 146 507 116 460 58 395 0 330 1 748 Lower Saxony poly 817 456 797 464 796 486 796 509 764 521 726 513 733 495 716 458 729 441 729 434 730 411 736 405 730 398 749 365 745 363 748 349 747 356 762 355 775 323 769 321 772 314 779 308 774 303 772 296 784 290 757 266 752 272 752 280 719 303 692 310 689 314 663 306 677 287 670 262 656 260 638 254 640 244 627 242 656 204 644 179 629 173 607 142 594 152 607 163 603 172 583 158 568 156 570 146 582 132 565 120 575 105 493 59 480 17 484 1 484 1 816 -1 Segeberg poly 0 186 13 234 27 261 29 205 175 206 175 204 176 326 56 327 84 360 124 367 162 391 195 379 213 378 213 384 233 387 239 380 253 370 264 371 235 307 336 262 363 199 375 125 383 117 376 92 368 91 354 93 347 75 349 61 337 43 357 32 366 30 379 23 481 15 482 0 141 0 142 17 232 19 235 181 30 176 31 117 18 114 17 90 30 90 29 17 139 17 141 -1 -1 0 Steinburg poly 668 748 574 734 501 710 455 709 383 694 374 686 349 682 329 658 271 624 259 615 225 599 210 590 198 560 184 531 186 506 190 497 210 553 221 556 222 569 236 569 216 537 200 500 203 470 195 452 172 453 178 494 171 495 138 418 149 411 167 434 177 456 191 451 169 386 96 365 56 327 32 326 29 257 14 240 12 214 -1 192 1 331 66 402 120 470 152 532 189 612 215 615 234 647 297 678 322 694 352 713 385 746 431 738 506 746 Elbe desc bottom-left

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Heligoland is located in Germany
Heligoland
Heligoland
Heligoland is located in Schleswig-Holstein
Heligoland
Heligoland
Coordinates: 54°10′57″N 7°53′07″E / 54.18250°N 7.88528°E / 54.18250; 7.88528
CountryGermany
StateSchleswig-Holstein
DistrictPinneberg
Government
 • MayorThorsten Pollmann (Ind.)
Area
 • Total1.7 km2 (0.7 sq mi)
Elevation
61 m (200 ft)
Population
 (2022-12-31)[1]
 • Total1,253
 • Density740/km2 (1,900/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC+01:00 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+02:00 (CEST)
Postal codes
27498
Dialling codes04725
Vehicle registrationPI, AG

Heligoland (/ˈhɛlɪɡoʊlænd/; ‹See Tfd›German: Helgoland, pronounced [ˈhɛlɡoˌlant] <phonos file="De-Helgoland.ogg"></phonos>; Heligolandic Frisian: deät Lun, lit. 'the Land', Mooring Frisian: Hålilönj, Danish: Helgoland) is a small archipelago in the North Sea.[2] A part of the German state of Schleswig-Holstein since 1890, the islands were historically possessions of Denmark, then became the possessions of the United Kingdom from 1807 to 1890, and briefly managed as a war prize from 1945 to 1952.

The islands are located in the Heligoland Bight (part of the German Bight) in the southeastern corner of the North Sea and had a population of 1,127 at the end of 2016. They are the only German islands not in the vicinity of the mainland. They lie approximately 69 kilometres (43 miles) by sea from Cuxhaven at the mouth of the River Elbe. During a visit to the islands, August Heinrich Hoffmann von Fallersleben wrote the lyrics to "Deutschlandlied", which became the national anthem of Germany.

In addition to German, the local population, who are ethnic Frisians, speak the Heligolandic dialect of the North Frisian language called Halunder.

Name

The island had no distinct name before the 19th century. It was often referred to by variants of the High German Heiligland ('holy land') and once even as the island of the Holy Virgin Ursula. Theodor Siebs summarized the critical discussion of the name in the 19th century in 1909 with the thesis that, based on the Frisian self-designation of the Heligolanders as Halunder, the island name meant 'high land' (similar to Hallig).[3] In the following discussion by Jürgen Spanuth, Wolfgang Laur again proposed the original name of Heiligland.[4] The variant Helgoland, which has appeared since the 16th century, is said to have been created by scholars who Latinized a North Frisian form Helgeland, using it to refer to a legendary hero, Helgi.[5][6] The discussion is complicated by a disagreement as to which of the listed names really refers to the island of Helgoland, and by a desire for the island still to be seen as holy today.[7]

Geography

1910 map of Heligoland. The islands' coastlines have changed somewhat since this map was created.

Heligoland is located 46 kilometres (29 mi) off the German coastline and consists of two islands: the populated triangular 1 km2 (0.4 sq mi) main island (Hauptinsel) to the west, and the Düne ('dune', Heligolandic: de Halem) to the east. Heligoland generally refers to the former island. Düne is somewhat smaller at 0.7 km2 (0.27 sq mi), lower, and surrounded by sand beaches. It is not permanently inhabited, but is today the location of Heligoland's airfield.

The main island is commonly divided into the Unterland ('Lower Land', Heligolandic: deät Deelerlun) at sea level (to the right on the photograph, where the harbour is located), the Oberland ('Upper Land', Heligolandic: deät Boperlun) consisting of the plateau visible in the photographs, and the Mittelland ('Middle Land') between them on one side of the island. The Mittelland came into being in 1947 as a result of explosions detonated by the British Royal Navy (the so-called "Big Bang"; see below).

The main island also features small beaches in the north and the south and drops to the sea 50 metres (160 ft) high in the north, west and southwest. In the latter, the ground continues to drop underwater to a depth of 56 metres (184 ft) below sea level. Heligoland's most famous landmark is the Lange Anna ('Long Anna' or 'Tall Anna'), a free-standing rock column (or stack), 47 metres (154 ft) high, found northwest of the island proper.

The two islands were connected until 1720 when the natural connection was destroyed by a storm flood. The highest point is on the main island, reaching 61 metres (200 ft) above sea level.

Although culturally and geographically closer to North Frisia in the German district of Nordfriesland, the two islands are part of the district of Pinneberg in the state of Schleswig-Holstein. The main island has a good harbour and is frequented mostly by sailing yachts.

Panoramic view over Heligoland from the highest point

History

Bird's eye view, Heligoland, c. 1890–1900
Prehistoric cist grave from Heligoland, now in Berlin's Neues Museum

The German Bight and the area around the island are known to have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Flint tools have been recovered from the bottom of the sea surrounding Heligoland. On the Oberland, prehistoric burial mounds were visible until the late 19th century, and excavations showed skeletons and artefacts. Moreover, prehistoric copper plates have been found under water near the island; those plates were almost certainly made on the Oberland.[8]

In 697, Radbod, the last Frisian king, retreated to the then-single island after his defeat by the Franks – or so it is written in the Life of Willebrord by Alcuin. By 1231, the island was listed as the property of the Danish king Valdemar II. Archaeological findings from the 12th to 14th centuries suggest that copper ore was processed on the island.[9][page needed]

There is a general understanding that the name "Heligoland" means "Holy Land" (compare modern Dutch and German heilig, "holy").[10] In the course of the centuries several alternative theories have been proposed to explain the name, from a Danish king Heligo to a Frisian word, hallig, meaning "salt marsh island". The 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica suggests Hallaglun, or Halligland, i.e. "land of banks, which cover and uncover".[11]

Traditional economic activities included fishing, hunting birds and seals, wrecking and – very important for many overseas powers – piloting overseas ships into the harbours of Hanseatic League cities such as Bremen and Hamburg. In some periods Heligoland was an excellent base point for huge herring catches. Until 1714 ownership switched several times between Denmark–Norway and the Duchy of Schleswig, with one period of control by Hamburg. In August 1714, it was conquered by Denmark–Norway, and it remained Danish until 1807.[12]

19th century

Postage stamp showing Queen Victoria and denominated in Hamburg schillings. From 1875 its postage stamps were denominated in both sterling and gold marks.

On 11 September 1807, during the Napoleonic Wars, HMS Carrier brought to the Admiralty the despatches from Admiral Thomas MacNamara Russell announcing Heligoland's capitulation to the British.[13] Heligoland became a centre of resistance and intrigue against Napoleon. Denmark then ceded Heligoland to George III of the United Kingdom by the Treaty of Kiel (14 January 1814). Thousands of Germans came to Britain and joined the King's German Legion via Heligoland.

The British annexation of Heligoland was ratified by the Treaty of Paris signed on 30 May 1814, as part of a number of territorial reallocations following the abdication of Napoleon as Emperor of the French.

The prime reason at the time for Britain's retention of a small and seemingly worthless acquisition was to restrict any future French naval aggression against the Scandinavian or German states.[14] In the event, no effort was made during the period of British administration to make use of the islands for military purposes, partly for financial reasons but principally because the Royal Navy considered Heligoland to be too exposed as a forward base.[15]

In 1826, Heligoland became a seaside spa and soon turned into a popular tourist resort for the European upper class. The island attracted artists and writers, especially from Germany and Austria who apparently enjoyed the comparatively liberal atmosphere, including Heinrich Heine and August Heinrich Hoffmann von Fallersleben. More vitally it was a refuge for revolutionaries of the 1830s and the 1848 German revolution.

Marriage Proposal in Heligoland by Rudolf Jordan, 1843

As related in The Leisure Hour, it was "a land where there are no bankers, no lawyers, and no crime; where all gratuities are strictly forbidden, the landladies are all honest and the boatmen take no tips",[16] while The English Illustrated Magazine provided a description in the most glowing terms: "No one should go there who cannot be content with the charms of brilliant light, of ever-changing atmospheric effects, of a land free from the countless discomforts of a large and busy population, and of an air that tastes like draughts of life itself."[17]

Britain ceded the islands to Germany in 1890 in the Heligoland–Zanzibar Treaty. The newly unified Germany was concerned about a foreign power controlling land from which it could command the western entrance to the militarily-important Kiel Canal, then under construction along with other naval installations in the area and thus traded for it. A "grandfathering"/optant approach prevented the inhabitants of the islands from forfeiting advantages because of this imposed change of status.

Heligoland has an important place in the history of the study of ornithology, and especially the understanding of migration. The book Heligoland, an Ornithological Observatory by Heinrich Gätke, published in German in 1890 and in English in 1895, described an astonishing array of migrant birds on the island and was a major influence on future studies of bird migration.[18]

In 1892, the Biological Station of Helgoland was founded by phycologist Paul Kuckuck, a student of Johannes Reinke (leading marine phycologist).[19]

20th century

Aerial photograph showing new fortifications in 1919
Heligoland about 1929–1930

Under the German Empire, the islands became a major naval base, and during the First World War the civilian population was evacuated to the mainland. The island was fortified with concrete gun emplacements along its cliffs similar to the Rock of Gibraltar. Island defences included 364 mounted guns including 142 42-centimetre (17 in) disappearing guns overlooking shipping channels defended with ten rows of naval mines.[20] The first naval engagement of the war, the Battle of Heligoland Bight, was fought nearby in the first month of the war. The islanders returned in 1918, but during the Nazi era the naval base was reactivated.

Werner Heisenberg (1901–1976) first formulated the equation underlying his theory of quantum mechanics while on Heligoland in the 1920s. While a student of Arnold Sommerfeld at Munich, Heisenberg first met the Danish physicist Niels Bohr in 1922 at the Bohr Festival, Gottingen.[21] He and Bohr went for long hikes in the mountains and discussed the failure of existing theories to account for the new experimental results on the quantum structure of matter. Following these discussions, Heisenberg plunged into several months of intensive theoretical research but met with continual frustration. Finally, suffering from a severe attack of hay fever that his aspirin and cocaine treatment was failing to alleviate,[22] he retreated to the treeless (and pollenless) island of Heligoland in the summer of 1925. There he conceived the basis of the quantum theory.

In 1937, construction began on a major reclamation project (Project Hummerschere) intended to expand existing naval facilities and restore the island to its pre-1629 dimensions, restoring large areas which had been eroded by the sea. The project was largely abandoned after the start of World War II and was never completed.

World War II

The area was the setting of the aerial Battle of the Heligoland Bight in 1939, a result of Royal Air Force bombing raids on Kriegsmarine warships in the area. The waters surrounding the island were frequently mined by Allied aircraft.

Heligoland also had a military function as a sea fortress in the Second World War. Completed and ready for use were the submarine bunker North Sea III, the coastal artillery, an air-raid shelter system with extensive bunker tunnels and the airfield with the air force – Jagdstaffel Helgoland (April to October 1943).[23] Forced labour of, among others, citizens of the Soviet Union was used during the construction of military installations during World War II.[24]

On 3 December 1939, Heligoland was directly bombed by the Allies for the first time. The attack, by twenty four Wellington bombers of 38, 115 and 149 squadrons of the Royal Air Force failed to destroy the German warships at anchor.[25]

In three days in 1940, the Royal Navy lost three submarines in Heligoland: HMS Undine on 6 January, Seahorse on 7 January and Starfish on 9 January.[26]

Early in the war, the island was generally unaffected by bombing raids. Through the development of the Luftwaffe, the island had largely lost its strategic importance. The Jagdstaffel Helgoland, temporarily used for defense against Allied bombing raids, was equipped with a rare variant of the Messerschmitt Bf 109 fighter originally designed for use on aircraft carriers.

Shortly before the war ended in 1945, Georg Braun and Erich Friedrichs succeeded in forming a resistance group. Shortly before they were to execute the plans, however, they were betrayed by two members of the group. About twenty men were arrested on 18 April 1945; fourteen of them were transported to Cuxhaven. After a short trial, five resisters were executed by firing squad at Cuxhaven-Sahlenburg on 21 April 1945 by the German authorities.[27]

To honour them, in April 2010 the Helgoland Museum installed six stumbling blocks on the roads of Heligoland. Their names are Erich P. J. Friedrichs, Georg E. Braun, Karl Fnouka, Kurt A. Pester, Martin O. Wachtel, and Heinrich Prüß.

With two waves of bombing raids on 18 and 19 April 1945, 1,000 Allied aircraft dropped about 7,000 bombs on the islands. The populace took shelter in air raid shelters. The German military suffered heavy casualties during the raids.[28] The bomb attacks rendered the island unsafe, and it was totally evacuated.

Bombing and mining of Heligoland during World War II
Date/Target Result
11 March – 24 August 1944 No. 466 Squadron RAAF laid mines.[29]
18 April 1944 No. 466 Squadron RAAF conducted bombing operations.[29]
29 August 1944 Mission 584: 11 B-17 Flying Fortresses and 34 B-24 Liberators bomb Heligoland Island; 3 B-24s are damaged. Escort is provided by 169 P-38 Lightnings and P-51 Mustangs; 7 P-51s are damaged.[30]
3 September 1944 Operation Aphrodite B-17 63954 attempt on U-boat pens[31] failed when US Navy controller flew aircraft into Düne Island by mistake.
11 September 1944 Operation Aphrodite B-17 30180 attempt on U-boat pens[31] hit by enemy flak and crashed into sea.
29–30 September 1944 15 Lancasters conducted minelaying in the Kattegat and off Heligoland. No aircraft lost.[32]
5–6 October 1944 10 Halifaxes conducted minelaying off Heligoland. No aircraft lost.[32]
15 October 1944 Operation Aphrodite B-17 30039 *Liberty Belle* and B-17 37743 attempt on U-boat pens[33] destroyed many of the buildings of the Unterland.
26–27 October 1944 10 Lancasters of No 1 Group conducted minelaying off Heligoland. 1 Lancaster minelayer lost.[32] and the islands were evacuated the following night.
22–23 November 1944 17 Lancasters conducted minelaying off Heligoland and in the mouth of the River Elbe without loss.[32]
23 November 1944 4 Mosquitoes conducted Ranger patrols in the Heligoland area. No aircraft lost.[32]
31 December 1944 On Eighth Air Force Mission 772, 1 B-17 bombed Heligoland island.[34]
4–5 February 1945 15 Lancasters and 12 Halifaxes minelaying off Heligoland and in the River Elbe. No minelaying aircraft lost.[32]
16–17 March 1945 12 Halifaxes and 12 Lancasters minelaying in the Kattegat and off Heligoland. No aircraft lost.[35]
18 April 1945 969 aircraft (617 Lancasters, 332 Halifaxes, 20 Mosquitoes) bombed the Naval base, airfield, and village into crater-pitted moonscapes. 3 Halifaxes were lost. The islands were evacuated the following day.[36]
19 April 1945 36 Lancasters of 9 and 617 Squadrons attacked coastal battery positions with Tallboy bombs for no losses.[36]

Explosion

Aerial view of the naval base, taken from the south-west c. 1918...
...and a similar view in 2012, showing a large crater at the south end of the island.

From 1945 to 1952 the uninhabited islands fell within the British Occupation zone. On 18 April 1947, the Royal Navy simultaneously detonated 6,700 tonnes of explosives ("Operation Big Bang" or "British Bang"), successfully destroying the island's principal military installations (namely, the submarine pens, the coastal batteries at the north and south ends of the island and 8½ miles of main storage tunnels) while leaving the town, already damaged by Allied bombing during the Second World War, "looking little worse" (according to an observer quoted in The Guardian newspaper).[37] The destruction of the submarine pens resulted in the creation of the Mittelland crater. The British later used the island, from which the population had been evacuated, as a bombing range. The explosion was one of the biggest single non-nuclear detonations in history.[38][39]

20 pfennig commemorative stamp issued by Deutsche Bundespost to commemorate the 1952 restoration of Helgoland

Return of sovereignty to Germany

On 20 December 1950, two students and a professor from Heidelberg – René Leudesdorff, Georg von Hatzfeld and Hubertus zu Löwenstein – occupied the off-limits island and raised various German, European and local flags.[40] The students were arrested by the soldiers present and brought back to Germany. The event started a movement to restore the islands to West Germany, which gained the support of the West German parliament. On 1 March 1952, Heligoland was returned to German control, and the former inhabitants were allowed to return.[41] The first of March is an official holiday on the island. The German authorities cleared a significant quantity of unexploded ordnance and rebuilt the houses before allowing its citizens to resettle there.

21st century

Heligoland Lighthouse, control station of the Bundeswehr and network tower

Heligoland, like the small exclave Büsingen am Hochrhein, is now a holiday resort and enjoys a tax-exempt status, being part of Germany and the EU but excluded from the EU VAT area and customs union.[42][43] Consequently, much of the economy is founded on sales of cigarettes, alcoholic beverages, and perfume to tourists who visit the islands. The ornithological heritage of Heligoland has also been re-established, with the Heligoland Bird Observatory, now managed by the Ornithologische Arbeitsgemeinschaft Helgoland e.V. ("Ornithological Society of Heligoland") which was founded in 1991. A search and rescue (SAR) base of the DGzRS, the Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger (German Maritime Search and Rescue Service), is located on Heligoland.

Energy supply

Before the island was connected to the mainland network by a submarine cable in 2009, electricity on Heligoland was generated by a local diesel plant.

Heligoland was the site of a trial of GROWIAN, a large wind-turbine testing project. In 1990, a 1.2 MW turbine of the MAN type WKA 60 was installed. Besides technical problems, the turbine was not lightning-proof and insurance companies would not provide coverage. The wind energy project was viewed as a failure by the islanders and was stopped.[44][45] The Heligoland Power Cable has a length of 53 kilometres (33 mi) and is one of the longest AC submarine power cables in the world and the longest of its kind in Germany.[46] It was manufactured by the North German Seacable Works in a single piece and was laid by the barge Nostag 10 in 2009. The cable is designed for an operational voltage of 30 kV, and reaches the German mainland at Sankt Peter-Ording.

Expansion plans and wind industry

Plans to re-enlarge the land bridge between different parts of the island by means of land reclamation came up between 2008 and 2010.[47] However, the local community voted against the project.[48][49]

Since 2013, a new industrial site is being expanded on the southern harbour. E.ON, RWE and WindMW plan to manage operation and services of large offshore windparks from Heligoland.[50][51][52] The range had been cleared of leftover ammunition.[53]

Demographics

At the beginning of 2020, 1,399 people lived on Heligoland.[54] As of 2018, the population is mostly Lutheran (63%), while a minority (18%) is Catholic.[55][56] There is a multi-sport club on the island, VfL Fosite Helgoland, of which an estimated 500 islanders are members.[57]

Climate

The climate of Heligoland is typical of an offshore climate, being almost free of pollen and thus ideal for people with pollen allergies. Since there is no land mass in the vicinity, temperatures rarely drop below 0 °C (32 °F) even in the winter. At times, winter temperatures can be higher than in Hamburg by up to 10 °C (18 °F) because cold air from the east is warmed up over the North Sea. While spring tends to be comparatively cool, autumn on Heligoland is often longer and warmer than on the mainland, and statistically, the climate is generally sunnier. The coldest temperature ever recorded on Heligoland was −11.2 °C (12 °F) in 15 February 1956, while the highest was 28.7 °C (84 °F) in 25 July 1994.

Owing to the mild climate, figs have reportedly been grown on the island as early as 1911,[58] and a 2005 article mentioned Japanese bananas, figs, agaves, palm trees and other exotic plants that had been planted on Heligoland and were thriving.[59] There still is an old mulberry tree in the Upper Town.

Climate data for Heligoland (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1952–present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 11.6
(52.9) 		11.1
(52.0) 		14.9
(58.8) 		19.6
(67.3) 		23.9
(75.0) 		25.6
(78.1) 		28.7
(83.7) 		28.1
(82.6) 		24.4
(75.9) 		19.5
(67.1) 		16.8
(62.2) 		12.9
(55.2) 		28.7
(83.7)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 5.1
(41.2) 		4.6
(40.3) 		6.2
(43.2) 		9.8
(49.6) 		13.5
(56.3) 		16.7
(62.1) 		19.3
(66.7) 		20.0
(68.0) 		17.4
(63.3) 		13.5
(56.3) 		9.5
(49.1) 		6.7
(44.1) 		11.9
(53.4)
Daily mean °C (°F) 3.8
(38.8) 		3.3
(37.9) 		4.6
(40.3) 		7.6
(45.7) 		11.2
(52.2) 		14.4
(57.9) 		17.2
(63.0) 		17.9
(64.2) 		15.7
(60.3) 		12.1
(53.8) 		8.1
(46.6) 		5.3
(41.5) 		10.1
(50.2)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.2
(36.0) 		1.9
(35.4) 		3.1
(37.6) 		5.8
(42.4) 		9.3
(48.7) 		12.6
(54.7) 		15.3
(59.5) 		16.1
(61.0) 		14.0
(57.2) 		10.5
(50.9) 		6.6
(43.9) 		3.7
(38.7) 		8.4
(47.1)
Record low °C (°F) −10.7
(12.7) 		−11.2
(11.8) 		−7.0
(19.4) 		−2.1
(28.2) 		1.6
(34.9) 		5.0
(41.0) 		7.2
(45.0) 		9.0
(48.2) 		5.7
(42.3) 		1.5
(34.7) 		−4.0
(24.8) 		−8.0
(17.6) 		−11.2
(11.8)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 62.6
(2.46) 		44.9
(1.77) 		41.8
(1.65) 		35.7
(1.41) 		40.3
(1.59) 		56.0
(2.20) 		67.8
(2.67) 		88.8
(3.50) 		88.2
(3.47) 		84.7
(3.33) 		76.1
(3.00) 		73.9
(2.91) 		760.8
(29.95)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 18.6 15.1 15.3 12.8 12.6 14.0 14.8 16.3 16.5 18.4 19.5 19.8 193.8
Average snowy days (≥ 1.0 cm) 1.5 2.0 1.1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.1 1.2 5.9
Average relative humidity (%) 85.8 85.4 84.8 82.7 81.5 81.5 80.7 78.6 77.8 79.2 82.9 84.5 82.1
Mean monthly sunshine hours 49.0 73.5 137.6 204.4 250.8 240.4 247.5 225.0 156.4 104.9 51.3 37.4 1,778.4
Source 1: World Meteorological Organization[60]
Source 2: DWD (extremes)[61]

Geology

Lange Anna from the West
Lange Anna from the East

The island of Heligoland is a geological oddity; the presence of the main island's characteristic red sedimentary rock in the middle of the German Bight is unusual. It is the only such formation of cliffs along the continental coast of the North Sea. The formation itself, called the Bunter sandstone or Buntsandstein, is from the early Triassic geologic age. It is older than the white chalk that underlies the island Düne, the same rock that forms the White Cliffs of Dover in England and cliffs of Danish and German islands in the Baltic Sea. A small chalk rock close to Heligoland, called witt Kliff (white cliff),[62] is known to have existed within sight of the island to the west until the early 18th century, when storm floods finally eroded it to below sea level.

Heligoland's rock is significantly harder than the postglacial sediments and sands forming the islands and coastlines to the east of the island. This is why the core of the island, which a thousand years ago was still surrounded by a large low-lying marshland and sand dunes separated from coast in the east only by narrow channels, has remained to this day, although the onset of the North Sea has long eroded away all of its surroundings. A small piece of Heligoland's sand dunes remains – the sand isle just across the harbour called Düne (Dune). A referendum in June 2011 dismissed a proposal to reconnect the main island to the Düne islet with a landfill.[63]

West coast of Heligoland

Flag

Flag of Heligoland

The Heligoland flag is very similar to its coat of arms – it is a tricolour flag with three horizontal bars, from top to bottom: green, red and white. Each of the colours has its symbolic meaning, as expressed in its motto:[64]

German Low German North Frisian English

Grün ist das Land,
rot ist die Kant,
weiß ist der Sand,
das sind die Farben von
Helgoland.

Gröön is dat Land,
rood is de Kant,
witt is de Sand,
dat sünd de Farven van't
Helgoland.

Grön es det Lunn,
road es de Kläwwkant,
witt es de Sunn,
det sen de Téken van't
Hillige Lunn.

Green is the land,
Red is the cliff,
White is the sand,
Those are the colours of
Heligoland.

There is an alternative version in which the word Sand ("sand") is replaced with Strand ("beach").[65]

Road restrictions

The Heligoland police van
The Heligoland ambulance
Enlargeable, detailed map of Heligoland

A special section in the German traffic regulations (Straßenverkehrsordnung, abbr. StVO), §50, prohibits the use of automobiles and bicycles on the island.[66]

The island received its first police car on 17 January 2006; until then the island's policemen moved on foot and by bicycle, being exempt from the bicycle ban.[67]

Emergency services

Ambulance services are provided by the Paracelsus North Sea Clinic Helgoland in co-operation with the State Rescue Service of Schleswig-Holstein (RKiSH). There are three ambulances available: one on the main island and one on Düne; the third is in reserve on the main island.

The ambulance service drives first to the Paracelsus North Sea Clinic. In the event of serious injuries or illnesses, the patients are transferred to the mainland either with a rescue helicopter or a sea rescue cruiser operated by the German Society for the Rescue of Shipwrecked Persons (DGzRS).

If there is an emergency on the Düne, the ambulance crew takes a boat to the Düne and carries out the operation with the ambulance based there.[68]

Fire protection and technical assistance are provided by the Helgoland volunteer fire brigade, which has three stations (Unterland, Oberland and Düne).The tasks also include ensuring fire protection during flight operations at the Heligoland-Düne airfield. Volunteer firefighters are deployed on Düne in the summer, who report for 14 days and go on holiday with their families on the island and go into action in an emergency.

There are normally five police officers based on Heligoland. They have the use of an electric car and a number of bicycles. In the summer months the population can also triple with up to 3,000 day-trippers and additional overnight visitors. Occasionally, the usual complement of police officers is supplemented by additional officers from the mainland during this period.

Since 2021, the so-called BOS centre, a joint service building for the fire brigade, ambulance service and police, has been under construction on the Oberland, and will incorporate five apartments for police staff on the upper floor.[69]

Notable residents

Eva von der Osten, 1918

In culture

Leaders of Heligoland

Lieutenant-Governors

Flag of the Lieutenant-Governor of British Heligoland

The British Lieutenant-Governors of Heligoland from 1807 to 1890 were:[citation needed]

See also

References

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  2. ^ "Heligoland: Germany's hidden gem in the North Sea". The Guardian. 24 April 2011.
  3. ^ Theodor Siebs: Helgoland und seine Sprache. Cuxhaven 1909, pp. 20 ff.
  4. ^ Wolfgang Laur: Fositesland und die Bernsteininsel. In: ZSHG, Vol. 7475 (1951), p. 425.
  5. ^ Reallexikon der germanischen Altertumskunde, Vol. 14, Artikel Helgoland. Berlin 1999.
  6. ^ For example, in Heike Grahn-Hoek: Online Heiliges Land – Helgoland und seine früheren Namen. In: Uwe Ludwig, Thomas Schilp (eds.): Nomen et fraternitas. Festschrift für Dieter Geuenich zum 65. Geburtstag (Supplementary volumes to the Reallexikon des Germanischen Altertums). De Gruyter, Berlin 2008, ISBN 978-3-11-020238-0, p. 480.
  7. ^ For example: Roter Flint und Heiliges Land. Helgoland zwischen Vorgeschichte und Mittelalter. Neumünster 2009, p. 70.
  8. ^ Ritsema, Alex (2007). Heligoland, Past and Present. Lulu Press. pp. 21–3. ISBN 978-1-84753-190-2.
  9. ^ University of Kiel, Schleswig-Holstein State Archaeological Museum, ed. (1986). Schleswig-Holstein in 150 archäologischen Funden (in Deutsch). Neumünster: Karl Wachholtz. ISBN 978-3-529-01829-9.[page needed]
  10. ^ Heligoland, Past and Present, p. 39, Alex Ritsema
  11. ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Heligoland" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 13 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 223.
  12. ^ Encyclopaedia Britannica, 15th Edition, Micropaedia Volume IV, page 999, ISBN 0-85229-400-X
  13. ^ "No. 16064". The London Gazette. 12 September 1807. p. 1192.
  14. ^ Ashley Cooper, page 40 History Today January 2014
  15. ^ Ashley Cooper, page 41 History Today January 2014
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  45. ^ Wind Energy Comes of Age, Paul GipeJohn Wiley & Sons, 14 April 1995, p. 108
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Further reading

Papers

Books

  • Andres, Jörg: Insel Helgoland. Die »Seefestung« und ihr Erbe. Ch. Links Verlag, Berlin 2015, ISBN 978-3-86153-770-0.
  • Black, William George (1888). Heligoland and the Islands of the North-Sea. Edinburgh: W. Blackwood.
  • Dierschke, Jochen: Die Vogelwelt der Insel Helgoland. Missing Link E. G., 2011, ISBN 978-3-00-035437-3.
  • Drower, George (2011). Heligoland: The True Story of German Bight and the Island That Britain Forgot. Stroud, UK: History Press. ISBN 9780752460673. (originally published in 2002, ISBN 0-7509-2600-7)
  • Friederichs, A.: Wir wollten Helgoland retten – Auf den Spuren der Widerstandsgruppe von 1945. Museum Helgoland, 2010, ISBN 978-3-00-030405-7.
  • Grahn-Hoek, Heike: Roter Flint und Heiliges Land Helgoland. Wachholtz-Verlag, Neumünster 2009, ISBN 978-3-529-02774-1.
  • Ritsema, Alex (2007). Heligoland, Past and Present. Lulu Press. ISBN 978-1847531902.
  • Wallmann, Eckhard: Eine Kolonie wird deutsch – Helgoland zwischen den Weltkriegen. Nordfriisk Instituut, Bredstedt 2012, ISBN 978-3-88007-376-0.

1890 cession

Second Reading in the House of Commons [

External links

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Heligoland.
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